Tovxen Monastery
Part of the Orxon Valley Cultural Landscape World Heritage Site. Situated in Övörxangai aimag, Bat-Ölziit sum.
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History of the Monastery
Tövxen Hermitage Monastery, located at the peak of Tövxen Xan Mountain (2300 m), served for several centuries as a meditative and artistic retreat. It owes much of its significance to the fact that it was originally established as the studio of Öndör Gegeen Zanabazar, founder of the Mongolian school of religious art, whose masterful bronze statuettes have gained worldwide recognition. Tövxen also bears witness to the Buddhist meditative tradition, as the site includes two caves used by lamas for secluded meditation. This place of refuge was given the Tibetan name "Dubhan", meaning "place of creation", which gradually became elongated into its current pronunciation, "Tövxön" or "Tüvxen".
This site caught the interest of Öndör Gegeen Zanabazar when he first visited the area in 1648. Between 1651 and 1655, a small stone hermitage temple measuring 3.3 x 3.3 metres was constructed for him. The monastery served as his meditation studio for over 30 years until 1688, when Galdan Boshigt attacked this area with military force. Later, in early 1770, the monastery was rediscovered and studied. Subsequently a small temple was built and the area was named Tövxen Monastery. In the 18th century, the 7th shireet lamtan Corzh (head lama) of Erdene Zuu Monastery, Luvsandagvadarzhaa, had constructed a prayer-meeting temple, zhas building, yurt for the [nügnee saxix], zhanchiv chodin, a fence and gate. At the beginning of the 19th century Sain Noyon Xaan had constructed the "Serüün Dugan" (cool temple).
Description and Significance of the Site
The monastery is considered to be one of the three "homes" of Bogd Zanabazar and, therefore, an important pilgrimage site for Mongolian Buddhists.
Although Tövxen Monastery is very similar in appearance to the small temples of China, Tibet and Nepal, it is unique in terms of its extremely remote location, complete dedication to the purpose of religious meditation and artistic creation, and finally in its harmonious integration with the natural surroundings.[1] The monastery is situated at the peak of a wooded mountain, on a 30-metre-high plateau. The natural features of the cliff atop which the monastery is located were used to create a staircase and pathway, providing access to the monastery on the mountain peak and also accentuating its majestic character.
The main area of worship is situated on the west part of the plateau, while facilities associated with the day-to-day functions of the monastery are concentrated on the eastern plateau. Within the area of worship are situated the Creation temple (Büteeliin süm), the Temple of the Eternal Candle (Mönx zulyn süm), the collective prayer temple, the Semchin temple, and a circumambulatory circuit with two stupas; in the eastern part of the monastery are situated yurts and two wells. Along the steep cliff situated to the upper west of the plateau, there are two small caves with wooden doors intended for meditative retreat. Also located at the monastery is the so-called “mother’s womb cave”, believed to assist the spiritual rebirth of anyone who crawls into and out of the space, and a sacred ovoo where worship ceremonies are conducted. According to legend, the layered stones at the top of the cliff behind the temples were set in place by the naga. The platform at the top of the mountain was used for naadam competitions, during which eight pairs of wrestlers would compete simultaneously.[2]
Tövxen is also the site of a number of monuments and features associated by legend with the life of Öndör Gegeen Zanabazar, including an imprint in the rock said to be Zanabazar's footprint, two joined sacred trees which are said to be the tethering post of his horse, and the sacred "Mahakala tree". The monastery further houses a self-portrait of Öndör Gegeen Zanabazar, which has become the main icon of the site. During his stay at Tövxen, Öndör Gegeen Zanabazar produced a series of outstanding works of art, books and icons, as well as the soyombo script and symbol.
Recent History
Until the 1930s Tövxen monastery was permanently occupied by seven lamas, in addition to lamas from Erdene Zuu and other monasteries who came for temporary stays. Tövxen was abandoned in 1937, all icons from the monastery were gathered up and burned, and its wooden structures fell into considerable disrepair. The ruins were studied in 1967 and in 1971.[3] In 1971 the monastery was included in the national list of protected monuments with local protection, and in 1994 its status was upgraded to a nationally-protected monument. In 2002 a strictly protected area surrounding Tövxen monastery was established by the national government.
From 1992 the first restorative activities were undertaken with the support of the Mongolian Cultural Fund and donations from the local population, and on the third day of the final month of autumn of the year of the chicken (27 October, 1993) the monastery resumed its religious activities. The state award-winning sculptor L. Dorzh had rescued a number of valuable objects from Tövxen at the time of the repression of the 1930s, and passed on these objects to his disciples, who finally returned them to Tövxen at the time of its re-opening as an active monastery. On August 10, 1997 the construction of the prayer-meeting temple of Tövxen monastery was completed, on the basis of historical photographs and research materials. The prayer temple was officially opened the following day, with the participation of lamas from Tövxen, Erdene Zuu, Baruun Xüree, Amarbayasgalant, Xuzhirt and Uyanga monasteries, as well as from Ulaanbaatar, and a Naadam sports festival was held in Bat-Ölzii sum to commemorate the event. Reconstruction of the monastery continued over the following several years, with the addition of a stupa in July 1998 with the support of a private donation, and the reconstruction of the Semchin temple, Mönxzul temple, Gonxon, two stupas, gate and fence with funding from the Art and Culture fund of the Government of Mongolia, carried out by a private contractor.
Since its restoration Tövxen has become an important pilgrimage and tourist destination, attracting up to 20 thousand visitors each summer and autumn.
Notes
- ↑ Д. Майдар. Монголын архитектур ба хот байгуулалт. УБ 1971.
- ↑ Information gathered from Ravzhaa (b. 1903), who was a disciple at Tövxen monastery from 1915 to 1926 or 1927. Cited in БНМАУ-ын ШУА-ийн түүхийн хүрээлэнгийн Хар Хорум хотыг малтан шинилэхээр томилон гаргасан экспедицийн 1980 оны хээрийн шинжилгээний ажлын тайлан, 21-23.
- ↑ An expedition to study ancient Mongolian architectural monuments, led by architect B. Daazhav, surveyed the ruins and produced a map of the monastery. As well, they re-opened the former pedestrian access to the monastery by fixing the stones which had fallen at the south of the monastery. Б. Даажав. Хуучны барилга судлалын эскпедицийн тайлан. МУИС, 1967 (бичмэл). Х. Пэрлээ. Монгол ард улсын эрт дундад үеийн хот суурингийн товчоон. УБ, 1961.
 | In commemoration of the legacy and teachings of His Holiness Dulduit Danzanravzhaa Fifth Wrathful Noble Xutagt of the Great Gobi (1803-1856) I did not overbearingly sophize Nor preach with pride and arrogance But having found a sense in this world Spoke the truth of my dear heart. |   |